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Overall condition (Body) 8.5/10 Viewfinder is super clear, body is really clean has some minor marks from use.
Overall condition (Lens) 8/10, lens glass is super clean front and back no fungus, no haze, no fog, no scratch, focus is really smooth, has some marks on lens body (will not affect image)
All with 6 months warranty
Body s/n: *2214231*
Lens s/n: *2118360*
The Nikon FE2 was a 35mm SLR from Nikon launched in 1983 as the successor to the Nikon FE. It was manufactured until 1987. Two main models existed, an entirely black one and one featuring a silver top and bottom plate. In 2001, Nikon launched the Nikon FM3A as the successor to this camera as well as the Nikon FM2. Unlike the Nikon FE, the Nikon FE2 cannot use non-Ai Nikkor lenses because the Ai prong cannot be flipped up. Most Ai-type Nikkor lenses, as well as Autofocus Nikkors up to, but not including the "G" series of lenses, will work with the Nikon FE2. An improvement over the previous model was the use of a silicon photo diode light meter. The viewfinder information also got an update with a dedicated LED (+/-) when exposure correction is switched on.
First off, the meter is fantastic, and suited to my tastes. In the viewfinder, there’s two needles along the side of the viewfinder that are dependent on your shutter speed and aperture settings. If you’re in manual mode, then you simply line them up, and you’ve got the correct reading. It’s great for on-the-fly exposure decisions. If you want the background to be overexposed a certain number of stops, for example, you can simply watch the needles separate as you compensate by adjusting the settings.
The next biggest selling point was the shutter itself. It’s a vertically-travelling titanium focal plane shutter, which is controlled electronically. I know, I know... one of the reasons I sold the Canon AE-1 in the first place was to get around the battery issue. However, in a pinch, you can easily run into a drugstore to find the required A76 button cell batteries (a/k/a 357A or LR44). The camera also takes a 1/3N battery if you don’t want to stack two into the battery compartment. If you can’t even get to a replacement, then don’t worry. The camera will still fire at its mechanical shutter speed, 1/250 of a second, which is fast enough that you should still be able to take great shots in average lighting conditions.
Another fantastic thing about the shutter is that it has a maximum speed of 1/4000s and a sync speed of 1/250s. Of course, that means you’re not as restricted to tiny apertures on sunny days, and if you do a lot of off-camera lighting, you have a lot more freedom to adjust your shutter speed to isolate the light you’re using. The old Canon was maxed out at 1/60s.
ISO 50 WIDE OPEN max time: 1:44. if not dark soaked: 25s . Dark soaked: 2.5 hours and I gave up.
ISO 400: 54s, 40s. seems shorter (9s) if camera is in light and capped quickly vs. soaking in the dark first, after which you can get .
stainless lens mount flange.
AEL also locks needle in finder (FE let needle run)
Needle dead while advancing film to #1. Shutter at 1/250 in Auto.
M250: Mechanical 1/250
B: mechanical Bulb.
Battery check: Needle drops as soon as you take finger off shutter; normally stays on 16s.
Nikon Nikkor 28mm f3.5 Ai-s
Maximum Aperture: f/3.5.
Optics: 6 elements in 6 groups, multicoated.
Diaphragm: 7 blades stopping down to f/22.
Filter Size: 52mm.
Close Focus: 1' or 0.3 m from the image plane (the back of the camera), marked.
Maximum Reproduction Ratio: 1:7.4
Infrared Focus Index? Yes.
Size: 2.5" diameter x 1.7" extension from flange (63.5 x 43.5mm), rated.
Weight: 8.550oz. (242.4 g), measured, naked.
Hood: HN-2 screw-in, metal.